Learning to Surf

Surfing Code

Every time I am at the beach I stare at a surfers’ code sign, watch the surfers looking at the water to see if the conditions are right to hit the surf and think to myself I want to be a surfer. It is a sport I have been wanting to take up for some time but thought how is it possible to do this with small children? Recently I discovered a group called Surfing Mums Inc which is a not-for-profit association that supports a network of mums that surf. They meet at the beach to alternate childcare duties enabling parents to enjoy some time in the surf. It sounds amazing so I am thinking of taking a few lessons so I can join the group.

My first surfing lesson was not a good experience to say the least. When I was on a holiday in Bali I decided that I would give it a go and booked a lesson. Swimming at Kuta beach is not something that is on my “Dream List” but I figured there are always lots of tourists swimming there how bad could it be??

Learning to surf at Kuta Beach
Learning to surf at Kuta Beach

Things were going well, I think all my swimming helped me paddle out in the surf and I was standing up on the board, even if it was only for a short time. Then I stood on something, I rested my foot on the board to investigate further and saw there was a transparent star looking object stuck in my foot. My instructor kindly pulled it the object out and told me it was a chicken foot!! I am kind of hoping that he was joking or it is just a nick name they have for some strange sea creature.

After spending a few hours in the surf and getting the hang of the basics I had an accident. I was riding a wave in and as the wave come to an end I jumped off not realising how shallow the water was. I landed hard on my food and knew I had done something pretty serious. Getting out of the water I notice my foot was swollen and thought this could not be good. Back in my hotel room a doctor came out to have a look and as I was going home that night they said to get it checked back in Australia.

The plane ride home was horrible, the cabin pressure did not help my food and thankfully they had airsick bags cause the pain was there bad I needed them. When we got home I went to the hospital a discovered my foot was fractured! I am just grateful that it happened on the last day of my holidays.

Fractured foot from surfing but nothing a Bintang wont fix
Fractured foot from surfing but nothing a Bintang wont fix

After all that I still want to get out there and give surfing another go!

7 thoughts on “Learning to Surf

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